Sunday 28 April 2013

An Outsider’s Inside Look on Rape & Domestic Abuse in India


I just want to start with a disclaimer: I am only writing to present my perspective, personal experiences, and musings.  I do not seek to represent the whole country or culture. 

Rape.  A word filled with trauma, dehumanization, and shame.  Even before I left Canada to return to India in early Dec (before the infamous Dec. 16 rape in Delhi), my best friend’s mom handed me a newspaper clipping from The Georgia Straight about how India has been voted by sociologists and anthropologists worldwide as the worse country for women to live in out of all the G20 countries.  According to a BBC article, strong policies against violence and exploitation combined with good access to education and healthcare make Canada the best G20 country to be a woman, while infanticide, child marriage and slavery make India the worst. As TrustLaw states, "As a child, [and Indian woman] faces abuse, rape and early marriage and even when she marries, she is killed for dowry.  If she survives all of this, as a widow she is discriminated against and given no rights over inheritance or property."

My background is I’ve been here as a tourist twice for a total of 7 weeks, visiting 5 different states.  I’m currently staying in Andhra Pradesh (in south India) for longer periods.  Here’s what I’ve encountered of the objectification of women (as sex objects) and rape.  While travelling with friends in India, there was 1 incident in which we were on a packed train—it took us 15min to walk 8 steps in the sea of people—and there was a man grinding against her while her enormous backpack kept her tightly lodged for a few seconds.  There is this lady who is around 20 who lives near my friends who has had a child out of wedlock.  The adorable and energetic 5-year-old is a product of rape.  Her mother always had trouble speaking & can only utter sounds.  She got raped when she was working at a motel.  I have also met a vibrant, intelligent, and western (in her way of thinking as well as dress) socialite who is a product of rape.  Her mother travelled for 6 hours to drop her off when she was only 3 days old.  She grew up there and was adopted as an older child.  My friend told me that there are at least 3 stories of abuse, rape, or murder every day in the newspaper in their district alone, never mind the entire state.

Although there are many sources that build up a certain mindset and perception of women in the minds of men, I have to say that the media is quite interesting here.  Not that I usually watch Bollywood or Telugu movies, but I am subjected to this mind-numbing form of torture when I take overnight buses to cities.  Although there is no overt nudity, girls dancing in the musicals in movies are often scantily dressed by western standards.  Imagine what a shocker that is to your average Indian who sees only women dressed in traditional clothes that cover your shoulders, chest, and legs.  I always cringe at the objectification of women as merely sexy eye-candy in movies.  Even the framing of the camera lens (do forgive me if I don’t know film jargon) is often male centered.  A little zooming in here, a little elevatoring there, and voila, you get your male audience drooling.  The catchy theme songs aren’t much better.  I once heard this song that had a chorus dedicated to the repetition of “your eyes, your smile, your curves, your legs” or something similarly shallow.  Movies here also often show a very superficial side of relationships.  I’m not saying that Hollywood is much better, but at least the protagonists usually talk to each other before falling head over heels in love.  I’ve seen so many movies in which the male and female protagonists fall in love during a prolonged, electrifying glance or a mere touch of the hand.  Talk about over-sensualization of relationships!  I’m not saying that movies make men take extreme actions, as each individual is responsible for his/her actions, but it does help to form attitudes.  

I haven’t personally experienced any degrading treatment from men.  It is probably due to the fact that 99% of the people I interact with are Christians & they highly respect me as foreigner.  Also, the 1% of people I interact with who are not Christians are usually skilled tradesmen or construction workers; they also give me my due respect. During my 6 overnight train rides and maybe 20 overnight bus rides, I’ve never had a problem.  I’ve even taken an overnight train for 20h alone to save money.  I’ve taken lots of autos (auto rickshaws) and private taxis, often with just another girl—my fearless best friend, Catherine.

(As a side note, interestingly enough, despite the fact that India is a tough place for women to live, most people—especially in the countryside—feel a sense of security.  Because the home is half indoors and outdoors, housewives are always out and about.  Even if they’re inside, the doors are open to let in air.  People are often outside their one-room houses to cook, wash clothes, and use the washroom.  As a result of frequent power outages and no AC in most rural homes, people always keep their doors open with only a curtain hanging at the doorway.  In the summers, families take their cots to sleep in their courtyards or on the terrace.  I’ve even been in homes in big cities where people leave their front doors open for ventilation.)

I have heard many stories of domestic abuse.  I have witnessed it from my 2nd floor veranda.  The husband and wife were fighting so loudly they could be heard miles away.  For some reason, the husband was trying to beat his wife.  He ran after her with a knife and when he was intercepted by intervening relatives and neighbours, he picked up a giant stick.  I wanted to run out and say something, do something, but I was told that they’ll settle it in their own community.  If any outsider intervenes (even someone who’s Indian), they’ll end up turning on the outsider.  There’s something magically unifying when there is an outsider to form a coalition against. 

I’ve also heard many stories about fighting in the house.  One time I naively asked the child who was narrating the story, “who was hitting who?  Was your dad hitting your mom or your mom hitting your dad?”  The child didn’t even understand my question.  I was told by the translator that, that question isn’t even necessary because no woman in India would lift a hand against her husband.  I’ve seen 2 children I formed relationships with bawling on the street because they just witnessed their dad hit their mom.  We’ve had an instance when one of our construction workers threw a shovel at his wife who was also working with us.  Apparently, she was nagging him too much about his harsh discipline of his sons. 

I’ve found that domestic violence is often linked to the abuse of alcohol.  Alcoholism is a serious problem here.  Alcohol is dirt cheap in liquor shops and even cheaper when made at home from palm trees sap.  In some villages, homemade alcohol is the main source of income, above whatever farmers can make from agriculture.  Domestic violence is generally accepted here and most people won’t interfere unless if the wife’s life is in danger.  I think sometimes men look down on their wives because of their “failure” to produce a male heir.  I wonder what these men would say if they knew that they are the ones responsible for the chromosome that determines the sex of the baby?  For many, raising girls means saving a lot of money to pay for their dowries when they married.  Although this practice was outlawed in 1961 under the Indian civil law, it is still prevalent and there’s nothing the government can do to stop it.  Having girls also means that you make an investment with little returns: girls end up joining their husbands’ families.

All of the bad media and musing above aside though, I’ve met many decent, respectable, and humble Indian gentlemen.  I’ve witnessed tears trail down Vimal’s cheeks as we read through articles about rape in India centering around the appalling Dec. 16 incident.  As in any other country around the world, India has all sorts of people.  It’s just sad that certain pockets of the culture condone the degradation and objectification of women, and failures of the system allow appalling forms of this dehumanization to unfold. 

Don’t get me started now on the reports I’ve read about rape victims that go to police stations to only get raped there again by the law enforcement officers.  My blog is long enough already.

Monday 8 April 2013

What I’ve Learnt in Rural India


Below are the top 10 things I’ve learned after living here for a year.  Not bad for a Canadian city girl, eh?  (haha, I just can’t resist the temptation to use a Canadianism)

  1. How to use safety pins effectively and in an economic way to solve all my clothing and flip-flop woes
  2. How to use less water
  3. How to maximize my instant noodle soup
  4. How to hand wash my clothes
  5. How to make the best of a food budget at the poverty line: 60 cents for 3 meals
  6. How to flush a western toilet thoroughly with water from a bucket while using the least amount of water
  7. How to stop your ceiling from leaking onto your bed in 2min
  8. How to get rid of the lizards that appear at night to flick their tongues at all those crunchy bugs
  9. How to stop a heat rash from itching
  10. How to turn my stove—an open fire—up and down while ensuring the 30 eggs I am scrambling don’t burn in the huge wok

Well, here are the simple solutions:
  1. See “The Safety Pin” blog to gain enlightenment on new ways to use that handy invention of advanced technology.

  1. Just try carrying 20L of water (weighing ~ 20 Kgs) in buckets up a flight of stairs and down a long veranda.  Making the trip four times a day is a great way to get a free work-out.  Thank God I started carrying 4L milk jugs and ice-cream buckets from gr2 or so, so I’ve built up the muscles for it.  And I’ve worked out to a scientific precision the exact amounts needed for everything:  5L to flush #1;  10-15L to flush #2; 15L for a regular shower; 20L for a shower that includes washing my hair; 500mL to wash my hands.  I did a bit of research and discovered on the Environmental Canada website that household toilets use 20L to flush (that’s like an entire shower!) whereas 6L would do.  According to the government website, the average Canadian’s daily domestic use of fresh water per capita is 343L whereas in France, it is 150L and America is 382L.  My usage?  Well, including my drinking water & water used for cooking & washing dishes, 90L a day.

  1. After cooking instant noodles, savour some of the soup & save the rest.  Day 2: take the soup out of the fridge (if you have one) and re-boil it with noodles, veggies and a poached egg.

  1. Hmmm…. This is still a challenge for me.  I’m not good at getting the spots out.  But I’m quite good at soaking them for a long time and procrastinating at washing them.  The good thing is soaking clothes in soapy water is very effective at getting all the dust out.  The water turns into a murky brown colour.  I always do my laundry in Jangareddigudem (30km away from the school & children’s home) when I go back once a week because there’s running water there.  It flows from an outdoor tap.  It’s easier to wash my clothes in Janga because I don’t have to carry buckets of water around.  The trick is to finish your laundry between 6am and 9:30am when the government pipes provide running water.  After that, all you can use is stagnant tank water. 

  1. Eat rice.  Lots of it!  And when you cook dal, use less lentils and lots of water.  Flavour the watery dal with some masala (spice mix) and voila!  For dinner, add lots of salt and chili peppers to your vegetables so that a small scoop is sufficient to flavour your mound of rice.

  1. The trick is to pour the water slightly to one side of the toilet bowl to create a swirl (don’t know the scientific terms for this :P  Need my nerdy roomie, Cath) and enough momentum to get everything down with minimal water. 

  1. Wedge an umbrella between the fan and your AC, that is, if you’re lucky enough to be among the 1% of Indians (or those living here) to have one.  If not, look for a cement shelf.  This will help to redirect the drip off your bed and onto your floor. (See “You’ve Got to Be Kidding Me!”)

  1. Close your eyes.   Now gently push your knowledge of the lizards into a small, forgotten corner of your mind.  Tell yourself, “if I don’t see it, it must not be there.”  Ostriches do have strategic instincts, you know.

  1. Try heat rash powder, then anti-itch cream.  If all fails, take out your antiseptic ear solution (typically given to you after you get your ears pierced in Canada) which says “solution ideal for heat rash” on it and apply evenly over rash.  Repeat 3 times.

  1. Ask the kids helping you to do so.  They’ll either add more sticks and/or blow at the fire, or they’ll remove the twigs from the center of the fire pit.  Yay for a plethora of volunteers that never tire of helping me cook!